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Handlooms actually originated centuries ago and includes many crafty Indian Jamdani artists and its connoisseurs
Handlooms actually originated centuries ago and includes many crafty Indian Jamdani artists and its connoisseurs. All the revolution that we find in the handlooms fashion world today is inspired largely by objects of traditional and ancient design.
Recreating handloom fashion
Handlooms in India are extensively inspired by museums, ancient historical architectures, paintings, and carvings. Every detail of the textile, design, texture, and colour of Indian cultural history continues to be explored, studied and artisans are continuously guided to recreate it.
The outcome for an Indian Designer like me and many others is immensely satisfying and it helps the handloom eco-system to set new trends in Handlooms innovation – recreating old fashion classics.
Since, beginning the essence of Jamdani has seen heart-warming transformation - following three metaphorical threads that overlay its sensuous surface: the art, the artisan, and the patron.
Weaving process and technique
In the weaving process, you will witness alteration of technique, the subtlest changes in yarn or number of threads, elusive hint of a new colour, and diverse pattern and texture. You will find fresh appeal in Dhakai, Kota, Paithan, Kanchi, Banarasi, and a new hybrid genre that allows for complex patterns and designs never attempted on the Jamdani loom.
India's is surrounded by master weavers and over 70 per cent of whom are women, who can weave any pattern, no matter how complex and yet, like true artists, they keep pushing their craft.
Sustainable fashion
The National handloom Day should be celebrated year long and not just for a day in a year, weaving should also be part of our national system of education.
So, what more needs to be done to bring change in terms of acceptance of handling and sustainable fashion in India? I believe handlooms are sustainable, and Indian Jamdani creations are timeless, and continue to have inventive appeal even today. That's why you will find a saree passed on to generations.
Handloom in movies
Movies, movie stars and fashion trendsetters like Sonam Kapoor, Kirron Kher, Vidya Balan certainly helped handlooms fashion wardrobe revival. To cite an example the saree Kirron Kher wore in 'India Got Talent' is among the most sought after she styled herself with traditional handwoven sarees. Likewise, sarees worn by Vidya Balan have left lasting impressions amongst women who love handlooms and sari innovations.
Indian Handlooms have got its due to present its splendour in period films too and Biopics such as the National Award-Winning Movie "Mahanati". A closer look at the line of costumes for Keerthy Suresh in Mahanati – and you will discover how integrated silks fabrics from different parts of India like Kanchipuram, Benares which were enhanced with Kota, Mangalgiri and block prints were beautifully handcrafted in our traditional jamdani looms by a dedicated team of more than 100 local artisans.
These designs have garnered immense admiration from fashion consumers – it certainly left a great impact amongst several markets around the world.
Jamdani and handloom's journey
Jamdani Weaving of Handloom's journey is painstaking and takes months of some years of hard work.
Indian Jamdani Weaving holds tremendous potential as art. It has given birth to innumerable timeless and inventive, fabrics, and fashion pieces. In recent times, designers and weavers have expanded their legacy to a wider audience, highlighting their versatility, and inventive potential.
Innovations during COVID pandemic
During the COVID 19 Pandemic, handloom masks became a rage, and it also gave new revenue generation opportunities for handloom brands and weavers.
It is also important to promote, wear and expand the outreach of handlooms far and wide. To further this endeavour we have initiated interlace, a series that made its debut in New Delhi. This series which we had planned to take to other cities to tell the story of Jamdani by combining a rich array of mediums like film, poetry and experiential installations, to reveal a saga of connections and transformations.
Because of Covid pandemic, we couldn't go forward with this tour, the aim of this initiative is to present India's rich Indian Jamdani history replete with fables and legends and explored the multicultural and deeply personal influences that make Jamdani one of the most exquisite creations of India's looms and also experienced the profound skill and sublime artistry with which the weaver continues its legacy. Post Covid pandemic interlace series will be touring to all major cities of India.
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