The Return of The Muse

‘The Return of the Muse’ by Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla is a behind-the-scenes documentary in which the designers reunite with top supermodels of the past to discuss fashion, inspiration, ambition and life. It showcases their extraordinary journey in the glamorous, yet gruelling world of haute couture.

Directed by Neha Sharma, the documentary was shot while filming a fashion-inspired music video titled ‘Jogi’. It features supermodel extraordinaries Arjun Rampal, Nayanika Chatterjee, Sheetal Mallar, Carol Gracias, Laxmi Rana, Dino Morea, Dayana Erappa and RikeeChaterjee. The models and Abu Sandeep reminisce about the early days of their careers and recall moments that have delightfully become a permanent part of their memory.

The atmosphere on set was one of exuberant chaos - a marvellous marriage of fun and fabulosity. A 350-year-old generational property in Goa was the location for this project. Its original Portuguese aesthetic is flawlessly maintained to this day, making it the ideal companion for AJSK couture which is always a love letter to history. Alila Diwa made a picturesque vision in the poolside shots seen in the film. More than 100 people worked tirelessly over 3 days for ‘The Return of the Muse’ and ‘Jogi’. Pranay and Shounak of ‘Who Wore What When’ styled the garments while the song was gloriously recreated by musical duo, ‘Burudu’.

Among the collections featured, ‘Gota’, ‘Dangler’, ‘Byzantine’ and ‘Navratan’ are seen prominently alongside stunning pieces from numerous other collections crafted with equally adored traditional techniques like Vasli, Zardozi, Mirrorwork and more. The male models are styled in MARD by Abu Sandeep. Every garment is indulgently detailed to reflect the celebratory energy that inspired this grand shoot. From embellished hoods in dramatic silhouettes to a plethora of pearls that dance as gracefully as their wearer, the garments have a life of their own. The collections feature Angrakhas, sarees, ghagras, skirts, jackets and numerous other Indian, Western and Indo-Western silhouettes.

The film also offers a glittering glimpse of jewellery and footwear by Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. Abu Sandeep comment, “We have been working on jewellery for the past eight months. It’s a very exciting expression of our creativity and it is slated to be launched soon”.

Ace photographer Ram Shergill worked his magic through an opulent photoshoot, bringing Abu Sandeep’s vision to life. The fashion film’s title is inspired by its soundtrack that features a modern rendition of the song, ‘Ranjha Jogi Ho Gaya’ by musical duo ‘Burudu’. Because if there’s one thing that Abu Sandeep love as much as fashion - it is music.

Sandeep remarks “I told Burudu’s Nakul and Sahil that the music should radiate the spirit of an anthem. I was also keen to do a folk Punjabi song. We explored the options and chose Jogi because its lyrics speak of Heer Ranjha, the eternally famous lovers of Punjab. Nakul and Sahil worked their quintessential magic and here we have a rendition of Jogi like never before beautifully sung by Isheeta Chakrvarty!”

‘Jogi’, in this context, refers to a person devoted to love.

Abu Sandeep says, “We cannot just limit love to romance. Love is a feeling that goes beyond the beloved. It’s a way of being and a way of seeing. We are devoted to our art which is fundamentally our labour of love. 2023 was a year full of ups and downs. We learn, laugh and move on like we always do. We wanted to welcome 2024 with a sense of celebration and that’s how ‘The Return of the Muse’ and ‘Jogi’ happened. After all, our hope for the future has much to do with our gratitude for the past. And so, we collaborated with our original muses to revisit our creative roots. 2024 will see many of our traditional techniques reinterpreted into fresh fashion.”