India Couture Week 2024: From French Grandeur to Installation Fashion

India Couture Week 2024: From French Grandeur to Installation Fashion

The final week of July transformed Delhi into a fashion haven, with India Couture Week 2024 drawing some of the country’s top designers to showcase their latest collections. Organized by FDCI in association with Reliance Brands Limited, this year's event was a mix of innovative designs and classic styles. Let's delve into the standout themes that defined this year's runway.

Historical Grandeur

Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’s 'Asal and Mard'

Historical themes often risk feeling overdone, but they bring a sense of nostalgia that can overshadow critiques. Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla's collection 'Asal and Mard' exemplified this with a celebration of Indian silhouettes, highlighted against a vibrant 'Disco Mujra' backdrop. Their menswear stood out with a variety of colors and contemporary reworkings of classic styles, enhanced by choreographed presentations.

JJ Valaya’s 'Muraqqa'

JJ Valaya’s 'Muraqqa', showcased on Day 4, drew inspiration from Istanbul, Isfahan, and Delhi, with a strong emphasis on Art Deco patterns. This collection echoed the grandeur of historical themes while maintaining a modern edge.

Jayanti Reddy’s Nawabi Ode

Jayanti Reddy’s collection on Day 6 paid homage to the Nizami aesthetic, presenting modern couture silhouettes that felt familiar yet visually impactful. The lineup successfully blended traditional elements with contemporary styles, resulting in an elegant and refined presentation.

Falguni Shane Peacock’s 'Rang Mahal'

Closing the week was Falguni Shane Peacock's 'Rang Mahal', where history met pop colors. The designer duo's first foray into Indian weaves saw Banarasis and Kanjeevarams adorned with bling and crystals, making for a striking finale. This collection stood out for its bold use of colors and textures, creating a memorable end to the event.

Installation Fashion

Suneet Varma’s 'Nazm'

Installation fashion made a significant impact this year, moving beyond traditional runway presentations. Suneet Varma's 'Nazm', showcased on Day 2, featured hand-embroidered applique work on metallic tissue, organza, and chiffon. The standout element was the designer's unique blouse silhouettes.

Amit Aggarwal’s 'Antevorta'

Amit Aggarwal's 'Antevorta' on Day 5 offered a futuristic reinterpretation of traditional Indian silhouettes. Inspired by concepts of space, time, matter, energy, and information, the collection featured stiff swirls, ornamental face pieces, and metallic bling, evoking a vision of Indian Art Deco from 2050.

European Grandeur

Isha Jajodia’s 'Roseroom'

European influences were prominent, with designers incorporating various aspects into their collections. Isha Jajodia’s 'Roseroom' on Day 2 was inspired by opulent French architecture, featuring soft palettes, trailing silhouettes, and accessories like bows, pearls, and masks, creating a fairy tale-like ambiance.

Siddartha Tytler’s 'Caligula’s Feast'

The next day, Siddartha Tytler presented 'Caligula’s Feast', a collection inspired by the controversial Roman emperor. Dark tones, lavish embroidery, and sultry showstoppers embodied indulgent opulence.

Rimzim Dadu’s Baroque Inspiration

On the penultimate day, Rimzim Dadu bypassed the Renaissance era to explore Baroque architecture and music. Her collection featured embroidered cages and statement shoulders on minimalist silhouettes, encased in metallic cords.

Floral Femininity

Isha Jajodia and Dolly J

Florals are a timeless theme in fashion, often symbolizing femininity. Isha Jajodia’s 'Roseroom' incorporated French-inspired lace bodice gowns, while Dolly J's showcase experimented with whimsical hems, tulle, and crystal embellishments, evoking a Victorian feel.

Rahul Mishra’s 'Nargis' and Tarun Tahiliani

Rahul Mishra’s 'Nargis' on Day 5 drew inspiration from Mughal Gardens, while Tarun Tahiliani's collection, despite a last-minute redo, offered a soft, comforting embrace. His pieces celebrated Indian craftsmanship with intricate kashidakar, mukaish, and chikankari work.

India Couture Week 2024 was a blend of historical opulence, European grandeur, and innovative installation fashion. Each designer brought their unique vision to the runway, creating a memorable week of high fashion. Which showcase was your favourite?