Gaurav Gupta at Paris Couture Week

Designer Gaurav Gupta presented his collection at ongoing Paris Couture Week. The designer has made inroads on the International red carpet with many a pop icons and Hollywood stars choosing to wear his designs for prestigious movie awards and galas.

This collection, Aarohanam is ascension. A Sanskrit word that has a deep spiritual significance marking the journey of a being from the gross to the subtle, from solid to sublime, from darkness to light. This phenomenon inspires the collection. It portrays elevation from reason to innocence, letting go of every construct to become one with the natural design of existence. Much like the movement of a snake’s journey as it sheds old skin to emerge anew, reborn. It is reflective of the concept of kundalini - the coiled snake that rests dormant at the base of our spines till it is awakened by the power of deep meditation and intent. That is when the curtain of illusion lifts, the chakras open and the flame ignites.

A careful observation of the flame reveals colours that weave the collection together. Black is a metaphor for the absolute nothingness of being. Agni orange reflects the rising of a flame. Sand represents light, reflection. The ether blue is indicative of the infinity that ascension brings.

Silhouettes play with volume in a way that shows the flickering dance as a flame rises to dissolve into limitless space.

Cropped jackets, exaggerated capes, fluid trench coats and sculpted metal structures come together to paint the surrealism which breathes in ancient Indian texts like the Vedas. Chiffon, woolen suiting’s, tailored textiles are made richer with indigenous techniques like Badla, Mukaish and Zardozi peeping through multi-dimensional crystals greeting luminescence. The couturier’s signature sculpting art meanders throughout the collection.

Aarohanam is a trip beyond the horizon, a serpentine move from electricity to light.