Tahiliani in eye of storm over Indian contingent’s attire at Olympics

New Delhi: Star couturier Tarun Tahiliani is in the eye of the proverbial storm over his designs for the Indian contingent at the opening ceremony of the Paris Olympic Games with epithets such as “pathetic” and “mediocre” being used to describe his creations.

As the uniforms became a talking point on social media platforms and elsewhere too, several people also criticised the designs for becoming a promotion for Tasva, the collaborative label of Tahiliani and the Aditya Birla Group.

The men’s attire, the classic kurta bundi silhouette, had panel detailing in the colours of the national flag, safari pockets, and rolled-up sleeves. The women’s saris featured a pre-pleated design for convenience and ease of wear. Their borders featured the panelling in tricolour. They completed the look in gold brocade sneakers. What has not gone down well for some is the way brand logo has been incorporated prominently in the borders of the garments, the fabric used and the fits.

Tahiliani’s team said he was unavailable for comment when PTI reached out for a response. However, he defended himself in an interview with NDTV when he said he stood by his work and said the opening ceremony was not a couture show.

“We wanted the team in the colours of the tricolour as most countries follow their flag and that was visible from afar. It would have been very easy for me to send them in zardozi vests. But it’s not appropriate,” Tahiliani said. He added that he and his team had only three weeks to prepare the costumes. “I can’t weave handloom for 300 uniforms in that time. The shoes were brocade, brocade from Benares,” he told NDTV.

Tahiliani also slammed “armchair critics” who accused him of charging a heavy sum for crafting these designs. “This was paid for by Tasva. It was not done for a fee, it was done to support our athletes. Asking what I was paid for it just shows their mentality,” he added.

Among those criticising the designer, who made headlines of another sort entirely when he dressed American reality star Kim Kardashian for the Anant Ambani-Radhika Merchant wedding, was former badminton star Jwala Gutta.

“The garments which was made for the Indian contingent participating in Olympics this time has been a huge disappointment!! (Especially when the designer was announced I had huge expectations) (sic)” she wrote, without mentioning Tahiliani’s name. Gutta argued that not all women know how to wear a sari and that’s why the designer should have crafted “pre draped” saris, which are a current trend.

“The girls looked uncomfortable the blouse was of bad fit!! And second the colour and the print was so opposite of beautiful Indian!!! There was an opportunity for the designer to display the art of our culture through embroidery or hand paint!!

“It was a work of absolute mediocrity and looked shabby!!! I really hope the sports family stops compromising on quality for our sportspersons looks on court and off court!!!! (sic)” Gutta wrote, posting photographs of herself from the 2016 Rio Olympics with fellow badminton players PV Sindhu, Ashwini Ponnappa and tennis star Rohan Bopanna.

A user reshared her post and wrote: “Hello Tarun Tahiliani! I have seen better Sarees sold in Mumbai streets for Rs.200 than these ceremonial uniforms you’ve ‘designed’. Cheap polyester like fabric, Ikat PRINT (!!!), tricolors thrown together with no imagination. Did you outsource it to an intern or come up with it in the last 3 minutes before the deadline? Such a disgrace to the rich weaving culture and history of India.”

There were others who were not too convinced either. Another user said designers for the Mongolia and Sri Lanka contingents did a better job dressing their teams. Others shared videos of the designs as reimagined by AI and wrote Tahiliani’s design can be “easily replaced” by technology.

One user said the kurtas were “creased”, the blouse “poor fitting” and the sari was “not even white”. “I don’t know what Tarun Tahiliani was thinking while scribbling these pathetic uniforms, did our champions really bad. The women’s saree look like ‘before’ shot in an Ujala Ad. While menswear, it’s just looks a bit ..ringard if I may say in spirit of Paris! (sic)” commented another.

According to Ashish Mukul, brand head, Tasva, the ceremonial attire for Team India is “crafted with a profound sense of national pride and an aim to balance tradition with modernity”. In a statement, Mukul said the garments draw inspiration from the Indian flag, “symbolising unity, and pride, which is one of the richest ways of representing India”.

He said the contemporary silhouettes, such as the Bundi jacket and pre-pleated sari, were carefully chosen to ensure “both comfort and functionality” for the athletes. “The fabrics, including cotton and viscose crepe, are selected for their practical and aesthetic qualities, as our athletes would be out in the open for almost 6 hours during the event. The use of Ikat-inspired prints and modern elements is a deliberate choice to reflect modern India. Our intention is to create an attire that represents India’s rich heritage and ensure our athletes feel comfortable and confident,” he added.

Two-time Olympic medallist Sindhu, who was one of the flag bearers of the Indian contingent along with table tennis legend A Sharath Kamal, had posted a series of pictures on X ahead of Friday’s ceremony. “Paris 2024, flag bearer—one of the greatest honors of my life to hold our country’s flag in front of millions,” she wrote.