Fast fashion is going to re-think its priorities: Ritu Kumar

Veteran fashion designer Ritu Kumar feels that the unprecedented situation prevailing in the world might set the clock back by one or two decades.

When it comes to the impact on domestic fashion, she feels local craftsmen and artisans are affected the most. She feels to revive the Indian handloom sector and bring it back on track, the government will have to step in. Kumar, launched her Spring/Summer 2020 collection inspired by Rabaari philosophy, inspite of the lockdown and economic slowdown, due to the pandemic. She says that the fashion industry has been hit to a great extent with the almost all of the inventory produced for Spring and Summer stalled. Thus resulting in designers unable to create for the coming seasons.

The veteran shares her views on the impact of the lockdown on craftsmen, artisans, and the shift that the Indian handloom sector might see post lockdown. She also speaks about the losses that the fashion houses might register because of market closure, while giving some advice for designers and artisans.

Read excerpts:

What India and the world are experiencing is unimaginable. What do you think will be the future of the textile industry and craftsmanship?

Well, it is a little early to say because we haven't overcome the virus yet or found a long term solution to control its spread. But from what it looks like, I have a feeling it is going to change in a way, which will set back the clock by one or two decades, in the way we think about clothing and fashion. The ones who will struggle the most in their way out will be the local craftsman and artisans.

You have launched SS20 collection, but with the current crisis there is expected to be an inevitable loss this season. What are you thoughts on this?

I think most businesses and most fashion houses are going to lose a complete season with the 5-6 week block out and production timing for the next season. In India, I think all our collections might be less dated as our collections are not very season oriented; they remain oriented towards the requirement in India. Our designs don't go into a winter-summer cycle. They are more festive season oriented and our colour palette follows the hues of Holi, Basant, Diwali. We don't follow the colour palette of the year, rather work on what Indian women prefer.

But having said that, it has hit the fashion industry to a great extend with the whole amount of SS20 inventory stalled, leaving us unable to create something special now for the coming seasons.

In light of Covid-19, please tell us more about your contribution to the local communities?

We have taken up an initiative to help flatten the curve by producing and disturbing precautionary masks made of cotton, which are reusable and washable. The masks are being currently manufactured in our factory at Gurugram, Haryana with a manpower of 20 workers and successfully delivered via civil defence DC Gurgaon.

These personal protective face masks are to aid the most affected local communities. They are being distributed to residents of the slums in Haryana to keep them safe and protected daily. So far, we have delivered 20,000 masks and aim to produce 2000 a day to achieve 50,000 pieces.

A message for your fellow designers and the local artisan communities?

Well, I do want to share that in all my years in business it has never been one smooth ride and this one seems to have hit the world harder. It's time to reflect upon the garment and fashion industry and assess the situation leading to the recessionary trend in the market. So, I think the time is to evaluate, create classic styles, and do things that are more reasonable to one's lifestyle rather than things only for the runway.

Also, it has been a long time since one has had this itinerary with so much time on your hands, it gives you something to think about and reassess one's life, the reality of it and how we are always rushing. I'm certain as a community, we will come out of this stronger with a clear perspective. Creativity is ever-evolving and we should never stop challenging ourselves.