When the Gods descend

Four mystical evenings on the lawns of Chousat Yogini Research Center For Ancient Arts & Sciences in Jubilee Hills, Hyderabad, decode the highly intriguing Theyyam- a popular ritual form of dance worship predominantly performed in the Malabar region of Kerala. Pink bougainvillea nods in approval as the Theyyam artists worship at the specially erected small shrines, antique brass lamps gleam with a soft glow, incense and divinity spread all around to the beats of Chenda and Ellathallam. It is a unique experience where the onlooker is transported to a differently divine world that is curiously mystical and transcendentally magical.

Pratima Sagar, the Center's Director says, "We bring Theyyam from Northern Kerala as part of our endeavour to study, document and patronise this ancient ritualistic performing art with its elaborate pre and post rituals meant to invoke a certain deity... it's definitely not presented as a classical performing art or entertainment but presented in its ritualistic totality.... and I am humbled and honoured for this group of Theyyam artists who have agreed to perform for the first time in our Telugu land."

Her friend Pradeesh K Thirithiyar curates and conducts the entire show bringing a team of 11 artists from Calicut. After a 16- day 'deeksha' that is filled with elaborate rituals, prayers and ancient traditions, they perform intense characters (veshams) for three consecutive days, sanctifying the premises, seeking blessings for peace and wellbeing.

A "deeksha" is undertaken for a certain period during which, the artist concentrates on the deity that he is going to represent. Over a period of time he internalises and the transformation starts taking place. On the final day, after elaborate pujas and rituals the artist invites the deity into his soul and performs under trance. Throughout this process, there is a "yogi" who conducts and facilitates the transition and the bond between the two is strong, which often turns very emotional. "Aaharya" is an important aspect of Theyyam: the elaborate make up takes hours to complete, head dress and other exquisite decorations for the deity are all made from fresh, tender coconut leaves which demand time, patience and skill.

Muttappan/ Kala Bhairavan who is normally invited during house warming, after an intense performance also acts as a soothsayer, clearing doubts and providing solace to those who seek his predictions. Guru Surjit Panicker, with his forceful portrayal in the powerful roles of Bhagavathy and Raktha Chamundi gives us goose bumps!

Pradeesh, a Bharata Natyam dancer from Kalakshetra who took up Theyyam and debuted as Kutti Chettan, often portrays Bhagavathy. His experience: "Once I enter the sacred space to the chants of Thottam, I slowly get into the character and go into a trance. It is when I receive the mirror (which again, is an interesting part of the ritual) the transition is complete. I look at myself and realise that I am no more myself but Bhagavathy. But at times if there is a distraction or if I am under pressure, the transition doesn't happen."

On the last day, Natya Seva is offered in conclusion of the Mandala, followed by felicitation to the ethnic Theyyam artists for keeping this ancient art alive. The ornate costumes, jewellery and crafts are displayed; but what steals our hearts is the live demonstration of making ornaments with tender coconut leaf! As the craftsmen gift each of us with finely made trinkets of coconut leaves, we leave the world of Theyyam with a fond hope to meet the gods again, but this time in God's own country!