Ladakh, where every traveller has a different quest

Ladakh is one of the most sparsely populated northern parts of India. Most of the terrain is higher than 10,000 feet above sea level. Bikers often explore it at high peril. Such is the allure of it. My cousin once travelled Ladakh on a 500 CC Royal Enfield. He travelled from Delhi via Manali and reached Khardung La, every ardent biker’s dream. It is the highest motorable pass.

Weather conditions in Ladakh are unpredictable but nothing stops bikers from chartering into this region! Like a bike ad campaign says, “The unstoppable”! I had to see the charm of Ladakh three years hence to see what he saw. It was a week-long stay!

Many rural people in Ladakh are cash-poor but they are by no means dependent. They grow vegetables and fruits in their backyard. They love using barley in their cooking. They roast the flour (tsampa) and store it in large quantities. Now, “Where must I stay for the night?” is often the first question any traveler asks himself once the initial awe of the place wears off! This is so with even the most impulsive bag-packer. If one of the families hosts you then you are lucky. If you aren't that lucky then I have a recommendation – Silk Route Cottages. I stayed there and it was worth it.

Located in a quaint village called Sumur near Samstaling Monastery in Nubra Valley (120 Kms from Leh), it is a large at property with expansive greenery. The rooms are fitted with fair amenities and are comfortable. The best part is it is amidst apricot and apple orchards.

Needless to say, the valley is a paradise. It also houses a lovely monastery - Samstaling Monastery. Lama Tsultims Nima built it in 19th century. As an aside, if you wondering why the cottage is named thus then it’s good to know that it is because Nubra was a vital trade center on the silk route snaking from Leh to Kashgar through two passes Saser and Karakoram.

Sumur is one of the remotest villages and that offers a kind of solitary aura to the setting around the monastery. As you enter, you will see traditional Buddhist hangings all set in hues of ocher and gold. The assembly halls carry Buddhist murals and this is where 50 monks gather daily to laugh, study, meditate, and chant. A guide takes me through the murals; he roughly narrates the teachings of Buddha’s teachings, Dharmachakra. A deeper study will take me a lifetime.

I drove to the monastery practically every day of my stay at the cottage. Everything about the monastery – whitewashed stupa; prayer wheels; mantra-inscribed tablets on walls; the mystic calm of the monks; and the mirth of children around – is ethereal.

Another attraction nearby is Yarab Tso lake. It holds crystal clear water. Relatively unexplored, it is located within an undulated, rocky, and barren terrain. Moreover, it is easy for an inexperienced hiker like me, the easy hike is just 15-20 minutes from a another village, Panamik. It is the last village open to tourists and is a must-see. Nubra river, in the village, is known for towering peaks and curative hot springs that contain high amounts of sulphur. Further, the remote hamlet is also a stopover for trekkers travelling to Ensa Gompa, another monastery, which is approximately 25 years old and holds several Buddhist murals and scriptures. My friends and I stayed there only for a night, we couldn’t leave the river side for too long.

The river side is full of Bactrian camels and Pashmina Goats. During peak tourist season, the string of stalls selling Kashmiri carpets, Pashmina shawls, flowering seeds, and artifacts are packed with people. I had a good mind to buy an old-fashioned cottage a little away from this center and stay there forever. But I’ll reserve the idea for the future. For now, the buzz of city traffic, preened parks, and big buildings are my calling.